When Zainab Albadri first set foot in Karbala in Iraq, she was overcome with peace and contentment.
But the feeling was followed by a sense of overwhelming grief.
As a young girl, she'd always dreamt of how it would feel to visit this city, and its shrines of Imam Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, and his family.
Millions of Shiite Muslims — one of the two major sects of Islam — take part in the annual pilgrimage to these shrines, which attracts more visitors than the Hajj pilgrimage in Mecca.
And though Zainab had thought about going to Karbala for years, nothing prepared her for the intensity of the experience.
"It's nothing like anything you've ever been to in your life," Zainab says.
She was 21 years old when she completed the spiritual pilgrimage. Now, three years later, she still gets goosebumps thinking about it.
"It's not Italy, it's not France … it's not as visually attractive, [but] if you know the backstory, you know this is where it all happened," she says.
Here's why the largest pilgrimage in the world is so sacred to Zainab and millions of others, and why weeping is an important part of the journey.
The sacrifice for truth and justice
This year, millions will gather in the city of Karbala to mark Ashura, the tenth day of the Islamic month of Muharram. It's a day that Shiite Muslims see as the occasion to commemorate and mourn the death of Imam Hussein, who was brutally beheaded centuries ago, along with dozens of his family and friends.
Then, 40 days later, as many as 30 million people are expected to return to Karbala and the shrines for the Arbaeen pilgrimage on foot.
These are record numbers. No other annual pilgrimage in the world attracts this many people
So, why are so many people making this journey?
Known to many Muslims simply as Hussein ibn Ali, he is remembered as the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.
But to the Shiite Muslims, Imam Hussein is also revered as a holy figure and one of 12 appointed imams from the family of the Prophet Muhammad.
Both major sects believe he was martyred in the battle of Karbala in 680 CE on the day of Ashura, but there are differing views about how this should be remembered.
And, unlike many Sunni Muslims, Shiites place special religious significance on mourning Imam Hussein and his family's deaths.
Shiites congregate yearly at their graves, which have shrines built around them covered by golden domes and adorned with lights and lanterns.
Beneath the domes, the streets are lined with black, red and gold flags, under which millions of devout followers gather to retell the tragedy of how the slain saint was beheaded.
They consider his sacrifice a symbol of justice and truth, and a protest against tyranny and oppression.
Shrouded in black, with tears running down their face, many sing sorrowful chants, while retelling the story.
Zainab says the whole experience at the shrines feels otherworldly.
"There's a Hadith [saying of the Prophet Muhammad] about the land [Karbala] itself, saying it's like a part of heaven on Earth."
"You really do feel that when you are there. From the scent, the people, the way people carry themselves, everybody essentially in their own zone."
Saying no to oppression
Sheikh Ali Mehdi Al-Ameli comes from a long line of Shiite scholars. He explains that in the Shiite view, Imam Hussein's death is seen as martyrdom and is central to their faith.
According to Islamic history, Imam Hussein and 72 members of his family and companions were outnumbered in a battle against an army of soldiers lead by Umar ibn Sa'ad. It was their attempt to preserve the true teachings of Islam, Sheikh Al-Ameli explains.
The Shiite view is that Imam Hussein was the rightful leader of the time and his position was usurped, Sheikh Al-Ameli says.
"We have in Islam a man that was oppressed 1,384 years ago and our resistance to oppression has made us, from that day, [to] create these gatherings to say, 'We say no to oppression'."
His martyrdom is seen as a message to humanity to stand up to injustice.
"We'll have these 'mourning ceremonies' until the end of time to send this message and we want the world to know that [oppression] is something that we don't accept," Sheikh Al-Ameli says.
Putting things in perspective
Many pilgrims often cry to express their sadness when the story is retold as a way of empathising, says Sheikh Mohammed Mehdi, also a Shiite scholar.
"One of the best things about [crying] is that it makes all your problems irrelevant. It gives you empathy for what happened [during the battle]."
"It really relieves you."
"If I'm having a bad day, I'll put on a majlis [Islamic lecture], I'll cry, and I'll forget my issues."
During congregations around the world, Shiite Muslims lament Imam Hussein's death through the recitation of poetry and latum, the rhythmic beating of the chest. This tradition was first started by Imam Hussein's sister Zainab, after she heard of the death of her brother.
Sheikh Mehdi says Imam Hussein was the embodiment of goodness and everything that was right.
And he says every character who played a role in the tragedy "personified a certain role."
"[Imam Hussein's sister] Sayidna Zainab for example, personified strength in calamity, leadership, eloquence in speech, and standing in the face of the tyrant while keeping her belief in God," he says.
A spiritual awakening
Melbourne man Aymen Al-Said has also visited the shrines of Karbala and he says the experience felt like a "spiritual awakening".
Aymen has been losing his eyesight gradually from birth, so the opportunity to visit the shrines before he lost most of his sight was medicine for his soul.
He says the gradual loss of his sight was "very confronting" and he became "frustrated, angry, resentful and reserved as a person."
"That was a difficult time in my life. It was a grieving process."
But he looked to Imam Hussein as a symbol of strength.
"Imam Hussein is a symbol of revolution, of upheaval of resistance. He means to me, to stand up for what's right," he says.
"Imam Hussein resonates with me because he had to overcome adversity to the highest degree, so perhaps the adversity that I faced in my life pales in comparison because nothing is greater than the sacrifice of Imam Hussein, of himself [and] members of his family."
Aymen believes Imam Hussein is an inspiring figure for all. He says it's "remarkable" that so many, particularly young people, remember him each year during the pilgrimage.
"The future of Shiite Islam is bright," he says.
The next generation
In Australia, the Shiite community makes up less than 10 per cent of the Muslim population but they are active.
Commemorations of the day of Ashura are held across the country, with processions attracting thousands in Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra.
Worshippers from all different age groups come together.
For example, Melbourne youth organisation One Light uses social media and holds English lectures to retell the history of Ashura.
Zainab, who is the president of the women's division of One Light, says many of the young people who attend the lectures learn about customs that have been practised for hundreds of years. This includes the shedding of tears as a form of spiritual rejuvenation.
"Crying in itself relieves you and refreshes the soul. It softens the heart – and every human being needs that," she says.
"You can't go through your life with a hard heart. Bringing people to tears shows how human they are."
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